Mérida from the teleférico

Part VI: Mérida


One of the highlights of Mérida was the teleférico: the longest and highest tramway in the world. The town of Mérida sits in a valley at about 7,000 ft, and the teleférico takes you from that height up to about 14,000 ft. You buy a ticket at the base that gets you to the third stop, then you can pay extra to ride to the top from there. (I think this is a safety measure: if you pass out while walking from the tram car to the ticket counter, they don't let you go any higher.) The entire trip up takes about an hour. Everyone got out at the third stop to hike around. The altitude wasn't as bad as I had expected, though I did notice I couldn't walk uphill very far before needing a break. Venezuela is quite noisy compared to what I'm used to, so one of the nicest things about being up in the mountains was the quiet. We were lucky to have a beautiful sunny day with very little cloud cover, so the views were quite spectacular. Some of our group actually hiked up the ridge from the third stop to the fourth and rode down, a gain of about 3,000 ft.


The first of four teleférico cars

View at the top

After a few days in Mérida, half the group left to visit a national park near the city of Coro, while the other half of us stuck around. Cathy had lived in Mérida for a year and a half attending the University de los Andes, so she had many friends in town. We ended up spending a lot of time with two of them, Cesar and Diana.

This was probably the most fun I had with Spanish on the entire trip. Diana knew a little English, but neither of them could really understand what we were talking about if we talked amongst ourselves. So out of courtesy and the desire to include them when they were around, we used a lot of Spanish. They, in turn, were patient and spoke slowly to help us understand them. It was a great deal of fun. Diana taught me the verb "to rock" in Spanish, specifically how to say "LET'S ROCK," much to the chagrin of the rest of the group. One afternoon Diana invited the five of us over to her house and she, Cesar, and Cathy cooked us an incredibly delicious dinner. We had visited an open market just down the street to buy all the ingredients fresh. Diana's house was interesting; the entry way and living room were open to the elements (protected by bars but no glass). Only the bedrooms and bathroom were truly indoors.


Diana (pictured), Jason, and I spent the afternoon sharing music.

One night a few of us went to see a movie. Most of the films I saw advertised in Venezuela were second- or third-run American movies, in English with Spanish subtitles. We ended up seeing a pretty cheesy American flick that was probably coming out on video here at the same time we were watching it down there. Being an audio junkie I immediately noticed the poor quality of the sound system. Compared with your typical American theater it was very garbled and had a lot of competition from the air conditioning. This made sense, though, since the audience doesn't listen to the dialogue; they read it. It was also interesting to note that while the particular film we were watching had a lot of bad language, the Spanish subtitles replaced it with much softer words ("god damn" instead of "f***"). We did see a poster for a Venezuelan-produced film while we were there. It was about Simón Bolívar's mistress or wife (I can't recall which), which would have been fascinating but it hadn't been released yet.

For our final day in Mérida before heading off to rejoin the group, Cesar and Diana led us on an expedition to an area in the Sierra Nevada national park high in the Andes a couple hours outside of town. It was absolutely gorgeous countryside. We were at such a high altitude that the clouds were rolling rapidly across the valley above our heads. From one second to the next it could be bright sunshine or dim and cloudy, though fortunately it was sunny more often than not. This area and the jungle easily ranked as the most picturesque places we visited.


Our trek in the Sierra Nevada national park

Out of courtesy I usually asked people for permission before taking pictures of them, but I had to snap a shot of this guy. Venezuelans are absolutely hooked on cell phones, pagers, and the like. Wireless communications and satellite TV are huge there because it's cost-prohibitive to install land lines, so nearly everyone we met had at least one cell phone, and many people had multiple phones and pagers. I hadn't realized just how out of control their usage was, though, until I saw this man in the middle of nowhere in a national park enjoying a mule ride... jabbering away the whole time.